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Gianni Versace has been quoted in a 1997 text by Richard Harrison Martin for the Metropolitan Museum of Art, that the dress was inspired by the punk subculture (hence the safety pins), and the Indian sari (as seen in the wrap-around design of the silhouette)

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"What's happening here is your visual system is looking at this thing, and you're trying to discount the chromatic bias of the daylight axis," Bevil Conway, a neuroscientist who is now a senior investigator at the National Eye Institute and the National Institute of Mental Health, told Wired at the time

Today's version is most likely to be worn over a big-collared blouse or simply on it's own